The leader on the 120 and 220 rolls are the same length which brings you to frame #1. I am constitutionally incapable of not observing the Bradford Hill criteria, but for everyone else it appears that removing that little metal triangle converts the 220 to a 120 cartridge. OK, the answer is that taking that little piece off the 220 cartridge was indeed associated with it coming to a hard stop after 15 shots.
I have used 120 film in the 220 cartridge and it worked fine as far as frame spacing was concerned - the only irksome thing is that after 15 shots you don't come to hard stop - the film advance goes on to 22. I read it here, but it was in passing in a thread about something else and I can't find it now. I have rolled sprocketless 35mm onto a 120 spindle and shot it through a 220 back. I have never tested this so let us know if you do. Have you tried just using 120 in the 220 holder? If the only difference is the counter, you would just have to stop at 15 frames (or try to squeeze a cheeky extra frame on the end).Ģ20 does not have the backing paper and it there for thinner, with two consequences.ġ/ the pressure plate will be set slightly differently - I think you will get away with this.Ģ/ the number of turns to move the film on to the next frame will be different, 220 would require more and this may lead to frames overlapping towards the end of the film. Wretched celery edited this topic 116 months ago.Ĭan you add a link to where you got your info?
Originally posted at 6:20PM, 1 June 2012 PST The only difference I can find between the two is the little triangular part at top right:Ĭan someone who knows confirm that unscrewing this triangular part converts the 220 cartridge to 120? Or that my 120 cartridge is missing a bit. I have read that the only difference is a tab that tells the camera the cartridge is 220, and that removing it makes the cartridge 120. I have both 220 and 120 cartridges, but the 220 is less than optimal when you can't get 220 film.